Thursday, June 26, 2008

I haven't brought up the climbing training progress since my Sad Post a few weeks back even though I said I'd make it a regular "thing". Last week I finished a six week cycle of weighted training on the fingerboard, and this week I begin 3 or 4 weeks of campusing. Contrary to logic, campusing is actually MUCH easier on my fingers than the hangboard...its my elbows and shoulders that take a beating on those elegantly arranged wooden rungs. So much so that it even allows my fingers a chance to recover properly from the sad shape they're in after 6 weeks of weighted hangs.

After 3 or 4 weeks of campusing, the cycle repeats. The general feeling goes something like "start hangboarding, get stronger while feeling progressively more wrecked physically, peak at about week 5 or 6, switch to campusing when the body can't take it anymore, lose half a grade to campusing but recover *somewhat* at the same time." Why campus, you ask? for the skill-building and coordination, at least that's what I tell myself. how else am I going to work on dead-pointing those 4 ft. dyno's I love so much!

in the way of actual results, I haven't pushed into higher grades since last time I wrote about training, but I've become a lot more consistent at the edge of the envelope...what that means is a much much higher success rate on V6's at the gym. I'll take that as proof of improvement, I guess. There were a couple problems that I was shut down on a month ago that I've ended up sending this past week.

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